Henri Bonneau, Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Reserve Celestins 2015
3x150cl £ 1,440 1 case available In Bond

I continue to love the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Celestins, and while Bonneau always claimed it was too open and easy, it has full-bodied richness, sweet tannin and the classic perfume of spiced meats, red and black fruits, leather and garrigue that's the hallmark of this cuvee. Like the Marie Beurrier, it has a more forward, sexy style that will allow it to drink nicely in its youth, but there's enough depth and concentration here to keep it evolving nicely for 15 years or more after release.

Looking at the barrels designated for the 2015 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve Celestins, which always comes from the famed la Crau lieu-dit, it offers a big, mouth-filling, chewy profile as well as classic dark fruits, garrigue, pot roast, pepper and cured meats aromas and flavors. It has lots of tannin, but everything is perfectly ripe, and this is a sensational looking effort. It's worth noting that this will be the last wine ever vinified by Henri, and it certainly looks to be a fitting tribute to an incredible winemaker.